Letters

Surfing

Nick’s wave

Ed,

I have to tell you about a wave I saw this morning. Only very occasionally do you see waves this good.

I got out into the solid surf at Spooks Point early before anyone else. After checking it out from the shoulder, I paddled inside and was joined by local Yamba surfer, Peter Campbell. I was blown away by how well he was surfing in the demanding conditions. Then we were joined by Nick Magasic and a few others. Someone said it was going to pick up to about three meters by midday. After I’d been out there for about three hours the biggest set of the day rolled in.

Nick was in the perfect spot to take the largest wave of the set and took off on what seemed to me an unmakeable wave. I watched in a state of incredulity, as Nick used every ounce of his surfing ability to hang on during the near-vertical drop. It looked to me like he was committing suicide by jumping off the top of a mountain of water. Somehow, he stayed on his surfboard and went flying past me like a bird on the wing. It was one of those moments that you never forget.

Monty Webber, Angourie